Facts Growing Tomatoes Growth Requirements Planting Seeds Transplants Fertilizers Insects Diseases Varieties When to Plant Care Staking & Pruning Harvesting Storage Questions & Answers Facts Are Tomatoes Fruits or Vegetables? Technically, tomatoes are berries, which are fruits. However, the USDA classifies their use as vegetables.
Where Did Tomatoes Come From?
The tomato is a New World addition to the diet, originating in South America in the Andes region (Chile, Equador, Peru). It was Central American Indians who are thought to be the first to domesticate the tomato. Tomatoes were introduced into the European diet by explorers from Mexico, in the 1500's. Interestingly, the initial tomatos brought back to Europe appear to have been yellow, or golden, in color -- not the red that is so familiar today.
Are Tomatoes Good for You?
Fresh tomatoes are loaded with Vitamins A and C. A new study has also shown tomatoes to contain anti-oxidants.
What's the Difference Between "Determinate" and "Indeterminate" Tomatoes?
The biggest difference is how the tomatoes grow and set fruit. A determinate plant will grow to a certain size, then it will set all of its fruits at once (which can be a considerable amount), then dies. An indeterminate plant will grow some, set some fruit, grow some more, set more fruit, etc., until it dies.
Which is Better?
It depends on what you want to do with the tomatoes! For example, if you plan to eat some of the tomatoes fresh, but you want to preserve/can the rest, a determinate plant might be your best bet. Since it sets all its fruit at the same time, it helps streamline the canning process. If, however, you want a few tomatoes this week, a few next week, etc., an indeterminate plant might be your choice. Your ripe tomatoes are spread out over a several week period. Homegrown Tomatoes suggests that you have at least one of each type, to provide constant fresh tomatoes for a variety of uses!
What Does it Mean When a Plant has "Potato Leaf" Foliage?
A regular tomato plant has leaves that are actually groups of several smaller leaves, usually 7-13. They almost appear to be fronds. A tomato plant that has "potato leaf" foliage has larger leaves, and they are not frond-like.
Is it True That Tomatoes and Peppers are Related?
Sure! Tomatoes and peppers are both part of the Solanaceae family, along with eggplants, tomatillos and potatoes! The tomato's scientific name is Lycopersicon esculentum, which translates to "edible wolf-peach". (With a name like that, no wonder the tomato was shunned as a food for many years!)
What's the Difference Between Heirloom, Open Pollinated and Hybrid Tomatoes?
In many cases, taste! Heirloom tomatoes are those varieties that have been around for at least a generation, and they breed true from seed. In other words, if you save the seeds from a ripe heirloom tomato, you are likely to get a tomato that's just like the parent. An open pollinated tomato is very similar; it just hasn't been around for at least a generation. A hybrid tomato, on the other hand, does not breed true. Since it is a "first generation" cross between two different tomato plants, hybrids can produce seeds that when planted, become like the "grandparents" (which may or may not be a good thing!).
Why are Hybrid Seeds More Expensive?
To get the hybrid seeds, suppliers, who provide seeds to companies like Homegrown Tomatoes, must plant two different kinds of tomatoes and cross them to get the hybrid seeds. In most cases, the parent tomatoes are "trade secrets". It's also expensive to hand-pollinate the tomato blossoms, to assure the correct cross is made. All this adds to the price of hybrid seeds.
Which Kind is Better?
It depends on what you want! In general, although vine-ripened hybrid tomatoes grown at home taste much better than their anemic cousins sold at the grocery store, it's the heirloom and open-pollinated tomatoes that usually win the taste-tests. In addition, if you want to grow your plants organically (or at least with minimal chemical fertilizers), heirloom tomatoes have the tendency to do better. Here's the caveat; hybrid tomatoes generally have greater disease-resistance than do heirloom. A compromise is sometimes the open-pollinated, which often have more disease-resistance, yet still have a great taste.
How Many Different Kinds of Tomato Varieties are Available?
In a word - lots! The Seed Savers Exchange (SSE), located in Decorah, Iowa, lists close to 2,000 tomatoes in its yearbook. However, the SSE catalogs just heirloom and open-pollinated tomatoes; don't forget that there are still hundreds (if not more) of hybrid varieties. There are estimates that close to 10,000 varieties may exist in the world today.
How Long Will a Tomato Plant Live?
Alas, tomato plants live only a season. When the frost comes, the tomato plants die. In mild regions, tomato plants can live a bit longer, but they do eventually die. Consider then annuals.
Where Can I Get Different Kinds of Tomatoes?
Why not grow your own? They're fun to grow, and you can be sure they're vine-ripened and fresh. Also, growing your own tomatoes allows you to grow the varieties that you like -- not what the grocery store buyer thinks you should like.
Growing Tomatoes Tomatoes are the most popular crop in home gardens. Proper care of your tomato plants in spring will mean greater yields later in the summer. Select varieties that are well adapted to your area. Make tomato selections based on pest resistance. Tomatoes that have the initials F.V.N.T. after them provide the best protection: F = Fusarium resistant; V = Verticillium resistant; N = Nematode resistant and T = Tobacco mosaic virus resistant.
Set transplants in your garden after all danger of frost is past, or be prepared to cover your plants. Space plants 3-4 feet apart in the row.
Cultivate or hoe around the plants each week or so to control weeds. Cultivate shallow, not over one or two inches deep. Avoid cultivation after the vines cover the ground; hand weed when needed. To avoid spreading certain diseases, it is best not to cultivate or harvest fruits while plants are wet with dew.
Irrigate during dry spells to ensure better yields and higher quality fruit. This practice will help reduce blossom-drop, blossom-end rot, and some types of fruit cracking. Soak the soil thoroughly to a depth of 8 to 10 inches each time water is applied rather than frequent light irrigations. To avoid foliage diseases, it is best to water at the base of tomato plants and avoid watering plant foliage.
Mulching is also a good practice. On small areas, mulching plants with straw or a similar material will save cultivation, keep down weeds, save soil moisture, and provide cleaner, better quality fruit at harvest time. Apply the mulch several inches deep and around the plants.
Growing Tips Tomato Growth Requirements: Like most fruits and vegetables, tomatoes require at least 6 hours or direct sunlight a day. Tomatoes also require warm weather -- frost will kill them. The ideal temperatures for most (not all!) tomatoes is the upper 70's to low 80's during the day, with nights in the 60's. (Temperatures in degrees Farenheit.) However, tomatoes will grow and set fruit in warmer weather, as well as in cooler weather; they just won't be quite as productive. Keep your local temperatures in mind when selecting tomato varieties. For example, a grower in the cool Pacific Northwest would be better off with early tomatoes (those that mature in 67 days or less), as well as tomatoes that are bred for cooler weather, while someone in the desert Southwest would be
well-advised to select tomatoes that have a good track record of bearing fruit in hot weather. So, keep your local climate in mind when selecting tomato varieties. Oh, and an adequate water supply is essential for tomatoes to produce fruits; an average of an inch of water per week is considered optimal, but if you live in a dry climate, you might want to provide a bit more.
Tomato Planting Instructions (Seeds):
Congratulations on deciding to plant seeds! You've made a good choice, because tomatoes are one of the easier plants to grow from seed. Also, given the low cost of seeds, you can have an entire garden of tomatoes that can last you the whole summer (with plenty for canning and sharing with friends) for less than the cost of a pound of tomatoes in the fall and winter months! Tomatoes from seeds are truly a deal. Here at Homegrown Tomatoes, we've experimented with several ways of starting seeds; here is a quick and easy way to start your tomatoes. You'll need:
Seed starting medium (vermiculite is fine, but do not use soil from your garden!)
Container(s) to hold the medium & the seeds
A spray bottle filled with clean water
SeedsThe container you select to start your seeds should be relatively small. At Homegrown Tomatoes, we've had equally good results from using a seed starting tray with 72 ndividual compartments as well as with "Dixe Cups" with holes punched in the botton for drainage. Fill your container with the seed starting mixture almost to the top. Make sure that you have some sort of tray under the containers, to catch any excess water. Take your spray bottle and mist the mixture until it is thoroughly damp. Place two seeds in each compartment or cup. If you are planting more than one variety of tomato, take a minute and mark the variety name on the container (an adhesive label on the outside of the container works fine). Take a spoon and lightly sprinkle additional seed starting mixture on top of the seeds (no more than 1/8 inch, though). Mist the mixture again, wait 10 minutes and mist once more with your spray bottle. Cover the whole tray and containers -- a clear plastic cover is great, but in a pinch, plastic wrap will do line. (Just make sure that you don't cover too tighly, the seeds need a little air to grow.)
Tomatoes don't need light to germinate, so just select a nice, warm spot for your container(s). The top of the refrigerator works great. For those of us in mild climates, you can even place your container(s) outside, as long as the night temperature does not go below 65 degrees Farenheit.
Your seeds should sprout in 3 to 12 days (a week is about average). Check your containers after a day or two, to make sure the seed starting mixture hasn't dried out (mist it with your spray bottle, if needed). Once your tomatoes are up, they need light to continue growing. In colder climates, this may mean growing them inside under lights or in a warm greenhouse until the weather is warm enough. In warmer climates, you can place them outside providing the night temperature doesn't go below 65 degrees Farenheit.
Once the tomatoes have grown their first set of true leaves, they need to be transplanted to a larger container until they are ready for their final locations. The new container should hold at least 8 ounces of potting soil or compost, and it does need drainage holes.
Plastic cups, margarine tubs, milk cartons cut in half are all examples of containers. The "Dixie" cup's big brother (in the 9 oz. size) will even work. (You can, of course purchase containers from your garden center, too.) To transplant the little seedlings, use a small
spoon or other item to gently pry up the tomato. Hold it by it's leaves (not it's stem) and carefully place it in it's new container, then firm the soil around it. Using your spray bottle, moisten the soil in the container thoroughly. Set them where they will receive
adequate light (indoors or out, depending on your weather), and keep the soil moist (not wet). After about a week, give them a very diluted (1/2 to 1/4 strength) drink of liquid fertilizer; Homegrown Tomatoes recommends fish emulsion or seaweed emulsion. After
about 3-4 more weeks, the seedlings will have grown to the size where you can transplant them to their final location.
Tomato Planting Instructions (Plants):
If you've purchased seedlings, or if you've grown your own, here are the steps for
transplanting the tomatoes. You'll need:A shovel or trowel (for planting in the ground)
A suitably large container (for growing in a pot)
Soil and soil amendments (compost, aged manure, etc.)
For larger tomato plants, a "cage" or a post (to help keep the tomatoes off the ground)
Mulch
Your tomato plants.For container growing, the general guide is this; for cherry tomatoes, or those designated as "Patio" tomatoes, you need a container that will hold 3 or more gallons of soil and amendments. (Miniature tomato varieties can get by on a 1-2 gallon capacity container.)
Larger tomatoes require at least a 5 gallon container, and 7 gallons is even better. Fill the container with the soil and amendments, about 1/2 way full.If you are planting in your garden, dig a hole at least 18" across and a foot deep (two feet deep is better). Place soil and amendments in the hole, filling it up about 1/2 way.
Spread your fingers and place them over the top of the seedling container. Turn the container upside-down and gently tap the container until the tomato plant comes out. Place the plant deeply in its final container or in the ground -- up to its first set of leaves.
Add soil and amendments until full, and gently firm the soil around the plant. Place the cage or the post in place. Give it a good drink of water, and add more soil, if necessary. Finally, mulch the tomato; this helps prevent weeds from popping up, helps to regulate the moisture in the soil, and also helps to control soil-borne bacteria.Fertilize your tomato plants after about a week; but only fertilize at 1/2 strength. Once the tomato blossoms appear, you can begin using fertilizer at 3/4 to full strength.
Organic vs. Chemical: Homegrown Tomatoes recommends an organic approach to fertilizers. Organic fertilizers tend to break down slowly, releasing their nutrients into the soil over time. By "feeding the soil" the plants become stronger and less prone to attack from insects and disease. A good organic approach would be to use a combination of compost, peat, aged manure (or the bagged varietes from the store), and organic amendments such as blood meal and bone meal to create a rich soil. With this approach, additional fertilizer is usually only necessary only once or twice a season; just after the blossoms appear, and again when a plant is laden with fruit. Good organic fertilizers for this use include fish emulsion, seaweed emulsion, and "manure tea" (fresh manure placed in a large container, filled with water, and allowed to "steep" for about a week). Make sure to dilute any such liquid fertilizer until it is the color of weak tea; even organic fertilizers can "fry" plants if applied too strong!
The organic method of gardening also benefits the environment by not adding chemicals that can upset the balance of nature. We've all read about how these chemicals can harm wildlife, not to mention ourselves when they infiltrate the water system. Chemical fertilizers work quickly, but they also leach out of the soil quickly.
Having made the pitch for the organic method, we realize that not everyone is comfortable using organic methods yet. We urge you to give the matter some thought, but if you much use chemical fertilizers, here are some general rules:
Fertilizer strength is measured by the percentage of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (N-P-K) to inert ingredients. For example, 6-6-6 means there is 6 lbs. of nitrogen, 6 lbs. of phosphorus and 6 lbs. of potassium per 100 lbs of fertilizer. A mixture of 4-12-6 would mean 4 lbs. of nitrogen, 12 of phosphorus and 6 of potassium per 100 lbs.
Look for fertilizers with a higher phosphorus (middle) number. Phosphorus is what fuels the production of flowers, and flowers are how fruits are formed. Try to make it a relatively balanced mix (5-10-5 would be ok, 5-10-8 would be better). You might try Miracle Grow for Roses (you read that right, roses), and use it at 3/4 strength.
Do not use a high nitrogen fertilizer! You'll be sacrificing fruits for leaf growth!
Do not fall into the trap of thinking "If a little fertilizer is good, more is even better!" Wrong! Too much fertilizer can kill the plants! It's much better to use the fertilizer at 1/2 strength and fertilize a little more often.
Tomatoes are pretty "user friendly", but that doesn't mean you won't have to check your plants! A hungry tomato hornworm can decimate a tomato patch if left to itself, and a horde of grasshoppers, can, well, plague you (sorry for the pun). The most common insects and their suggested means of control is listed below.
Aphids: These are very small insects, coming in various sizes (1/16 to 1/8 inch in length) and colors (brown, yellow, pink, or black). They harm tomato plants by piercing the stems and sucking the juices out of the plant. Aphids also secrete a sugary fluid known as honey-dew, which gums up the plant and serves as a medium for the growth of sooty mold; a fungus. Preferred method of control is to spray the plant with warm, slightly soapy water (make sure to get the underside of the leaves, too!) Backup control is to dust the plants with diatomaceous earth. Repeat the treatment in a week.
Thrips: Thrips are small (about 1/16 inch long) and slender insects. They live in flowers, on tender leaves and leaflets, feeding on the sap. One part of the thrips' mouth acts like a rasp and tears the surface of the plant, exposing the contents. The fluid is then sucked up through another part of the mouth. The adults range in color from yellow to
black, while the immature wingless nymphs are light in color. Their feeding usually causes leaf-curl (leaves curl in an upward fashion) or some type of distortion. Preferred method of control is spray them with warm, slight soapy water. Backup control is to dust the plants with diatomaceous earth.Spider Mites: Spider mites are about 1/60 of an inch long, and they may be whitish, green or red, depending upon the species. They are eight-legged (the insects have six legs) and are close relatives to spiders rather than insects. Spider mites live on the sap of the plant which is drawn by piercing the leaf with two sharp, slender lances attached to the mouth. Mites spin webs as do spiders, and are able to be blown from field to field by floating or parachuting in the wind. In periods of hot dry weather the leaves of host plants become blotched with pale yellow, reddish-brown spots ranging from small to large areas on both upper and lower leaf surfaces. The leaves become pale and sickly in appearance, gradually die, and drop off the plant (the leaves look as though they have been dusted with some sort of powder, caused by molted skins of the mites). The mites are also pests of plants grown inside or in greenhouses. The preferred method of control is hosing off with cold water, followed by a thorough dusting of diatomaceous earth. In Florida, a second treatment must be applied from five to seven days following the first, in order to control spider mites. This is because the first application kills the nymphs and adults, but the eggs might still hatch, giving birth to a new generation.
Tomato Hornworm: These fierce-looking critters are able to munch a tomato plant in no time, if left unchecked. You can recognize these caterpillars by the distinctive "horn" (which is actually located on its rear). Preferred method of control is to pluck them off and drown them in soapy water.
Cutworm: These worms are able to "mow down" young seedlings, by munching clear through the stem! The preferred method of control is to place a "collar" around the tomato plant. This can be as simple as taking the tissue roll (or a paper towel roll, cut in half) and carefully placing it over the tomato plant and pushing it an inch or so into the
spoil. Tin foil also works.Leafhoppers: Leafhoppers vary in size from 1/20 to 1/4 inch but a few will reach 1/2 inch in length. Most are wedge-shaped, broad at the head and pointed behind. They are often brilliantly colored, and may have solid, striped, spotted or banded color patterns. However, some are dull colored (brown, tan, gray). When leafhoppers are abundant on any crop, the plants show a lack of vigor, growth is retarded and, in most cases, the leaves have a mottled appearance, or turn yellow, red or brown. This is due to the leafhoppers sucking out the sap. Several species of leafhoppers transmit plant viruses. The adults lay eggs in the plant stem, buds or leaves, which hatch into wingless nymphs (which feed the same way as the adults). Control is usually accomplished by proper spraying of the crop with a recommended insecticide (Safer brand preferred).
Whiteflies: This insect is about 1/32" long, and is light in color. It inhabits and feeds on the under- surfaces of leaves by penetrating the tissue and removing plant sap with its piercing-sucking mouthparts. Adults congregate, feed, and mate on the undersurfaces of the leaves, and this can occur in such numbers that "clouds" of insects appear, when disturbed. Other forms of damage include the removal of plant sap, vine, leaf, and plant breakdown, yellowing, leaf shedding and abnormalities of fruiting structure. Control is difficult, but try warm soapy water.
Colorado potato beetle: The adult is about 3/8 of an inch long and has alternate black and yellow stripes running lengthwise down the back of its body (five of each color on each wing cover). It lays patches of about one dozen yellowish-orange colored eggs on the underside of the leaves. The smooth skinned larvae are pink to red in color and have two rows of small black spots on their sides. The larvae reach 1/2 inch in length when fully mature and possess well-developed legs. Both the adults and larvae feed by chewing the leaves and terminal growth of the host plant. Preferred method of control is Bt.
Nematodes: The nemesis of Florida gardeners (but found all over) is the nematode. These tiny worms infiltrate the root system, crippling and even killing the plant. The preferred method of control is to plant marigolds the season before planting the tomato plants (marigolds give off a chemical that wards off the nematodes). Backup method is to "solarize" the soil for at least a week before planting the tomato plants. (To solarize the soil, till the ground, then cover it with a thick, clear plastic. The sun will "bake" the soil, killing the nematodes. Since you also kill all the "good" bacteria by this method, so be sure to spread some compost over the solarized soil a week or two before planting.)
Tomatoes can be affected by several diseases. Some of the diseases reduce the number of fruits, but leave them edible; some don't. The most common diseases are as follows.
Bacterial Canker: Wilting and upward rolling of margins of leaves; generally one side of plant is affected before the other. Leaves brown, wither and die, but remain attached to the stem. Stems may have open cankers and yellowish decay of inner tissues. Spotting of the fruit; spots 1/8" to 1/4" in diameter; small cavities in central portion of the fruits. Some protection is afforded if soil is not allowed to be splashed onto the stems/leaves (use mulch soon after planting). Slight additional protection if mulched with compost.
Bacterial Wilt: Gradual drooping and eventual dying of the leaves over the entire plant without marked yellowing of the foliage. Stem decayed at ground line and covered with a whitish fungus growth, with small, light-brown circular spots. Some protection is afforded if soil is not allowed to be splashed onto the stems/leaves (use mulch soon after planting). Slight additional protection if mulched with compost.
Blight, Early: Rather large spots, up to 1/2" in diameter. The spots are brown with concentric rings giving a bulls-eye appearance. Plants partially or completely defoliated. Seedlings may be girdled at the ground line. Fruits developing large, dark, leathery spots near stem ends, with dark, dry decay of the flesh underneath. Development favored by warm, humid conditions, so this is prevalent in the Southeast.
Blight, Late: Grayish, water-soaked patches on leaves, increasing in size rapidly. Fungus growth also evident on underside of the leaves. Water-soaked spots on fruits; spots enlarging rapidly and sometimes cover over half of the surface. Spots become brown with a firm corrugated surface. Disease spread in the wind from overwintered debris for great distances. Development favored by cool, moist conditions, so this is more of a problem in the Pacific Northwest.
Fusarium: Yellowing, wilting, and death of the leaves from the base upward, followed by the gradual death of the plant. Dark-brown discoloration of woody tissues just below the green outer cortex of stem. No soft decay of stem. Symptoms may be apparent on only one side of the plant, or may appear on both sides. Does not effect the fruits (except in their quantity). A problem largely in the Southern USA (controlled by temperature in the north). Tomatoes resistant to Fusarium are marked with a capital "F" following the variety name.
Nematodes: Plants are dwarfed, sickly, and will sometimes wilt readily in dry weather. Roots showing swelling or galls. This is actually caused by a tiny worm, and if you get rid of the nematodes, you will remove the problem (see Insect section). Tomatoes resistant to Nematodes are marked with a capital "N" following the variety name.
Septoria: Older leaves show numerous small, roughly circular spots 1/16" to 1/8" in diameter with dark margins and gray centers dotted with tiny dark specks. Plants often seriously defoliated and fruits exposed to sun, thus making the fruits suseptible to sunscald. Fruit remains edible.
Southern Blight: Slow wilting and eventual death of the plant; soft tissues of the stem decayed, with cavities that contain a grayish-white fungus growth and large, black spots. Fruits sometimes show a watery soft rot.
Stem Rot: Emergence failure or collapse and wilting of seedlings, caused by a decay of the stem at the ground line or roots. Use a sterile seed starting mixture to help prevent this problem.
Tobacco Mosaic Virus: Green or yellow mottling of leaves; some curling, malformation, and dwarfing of leaflets. Plants slightly stunted. Fruits mottled by yellow strains of the virus. Can be passed from plant to plant by handling wet plants that are infected, then handling healthy plants (for example, when pinching back shoots on a damp morning.) This disease is widespread throughout the USA. Tomatoes resistant to Tobacco Mosaic are marked with a capital "T" following the variety name.
Verticillium: Yellowing, wilting, and loss of foliage, beginning at the base of the plant. Plants wilt during the day, but often appear to recover in the evening. Plant growth is stunted, but the plant usually survive the season. Discoloration of the woody tissues of the stem, generally confined to the lower part of the plant. Does not effect the fruits (except in their quantity). Tomatoes resistant to Verticillium are marked with a capital "V" following the variety name.
Varieties Hundreds of varieties of tomatoes are now available for the home gardener. They range widely in size, shape, color, plant type, disease resistance, and seasons of maturity. Catalogs, garden centers, and greenhouses offer a large selection of tomato varieties, and selecting the best one or two varieties can be extremely difficult. Choose the varieties best suited for your intended use and method of culture. Floradel - 80 days to maturity. Resistant to fusarium wilt. Large red fruit, crack resistant, good yield and quality.
Better Boy - 72 days to maturity. Resistant to fusarium and verticillium wilt and root knot nematodes. Bright red, globe-shaped fruit, vigorous plant growth with good fruit protection.
Floramerica - 76 days to maturity. Resistant to fusarium wilt and verticillium wilt. All-America winner, large fruited red hybrid determinate plants.
Ozark Pink - 75 days to maturity. Resistant to verticillium wilt and fusarium wilt. 1988 release by Ark. Agri. Exp. Sta.; smooth pink fruit, crack resistant; similar to Traveler 76.
Mountain Pride - 77 Days to maturity. Resistant to fusarium wilt and verticillium wilt. Hybrid, determinate vine, deep red fruit, crack resistant.
Celebrity - 70 days to maturity. Resistant to verticillium, fusarium TMV and nematodes. Crack resistant, determinate, large firm fruit. All-America winner.
SMALL FRUITED:
Large Red Cherry - 72 days to maturity. Good quality, small round fruit.
Sweet Chelsea - 65 days to maturity. Resistant to fusarium/verticillium wilt, nematodes and TMV. Produces excellent quality 1" diameter red fruit. Hybrid, large cherry type fruit, sets in heat.
Container and patio varieties - These tomatoes are popular for use in containers or hanging baskets in garden or patio locations where space is limited. Their ornamental value is considered more important than fruit quality. They have red fruit and are not suitable for pruning. Patio (hybrid), Pixie (hybrid), Salad Top (cherry type), Small Fry (hybrid, cherry type), Tiny Tim (cherry type), Toy Boy (hybrid).
When to Plant Transplanting tomatoes gets them off to the best start and saves several weeks of growing time. Start plants in the hot house or cold frame five to six weeks before the first frost-free date. Some gardeners transplant their tomatoes soon after the soil is prepared for spring gardening when there is a high risk of damage from freezing. In this case, be prepared to cover early set plants overnight to protect them from frost. There are many different ways to protect young tomato plants. Some of these methods include hot caps, floating row covers, and water-filled plastic cones. For best results, plant when the soil is warm, soon after the frost-free date. Plant development, not the age of the plant, determines when tomatoes bear fruit. Late plantings may be made in mid-summer for fall harvest and early winter storage of tomatoes. These plants have the advantage of increased vigor and freedom from early diseases. They often produce better quality tomatoes than late picking from early spring plantings. Time late plantings for maximum yields before killing frost arrives in your area (about 100 days from transplanting for most varieties).
The space required depends upon the variety and method of culture. Space dwarf plants 12 inches apart in the row, staked plants 15 - 24 inches apart, and wirecage or groundbed plants 24 - 36 inches apart.
Care Apply starter fertilizer solution when transplanting. Hoe or cultivate shallowly to keep down weeds without damaging roots. Mulch is recommended, especially for gardeners who wish to maintain their plants for full-season harvest. Black plastic or organic materials are suitable for mulching. Water the plants thoroughly every seven to 10 days during dry periods. Plants confined in containers need daily watering. Sidedress with nitrogen fertilizer (ammonia nitrate) at the rate of one pound per 100 feet of row (equivalent to one tablespoon per plant) after the first tomatoes have grown to the size of golf balls. Make two more applications at three and six weeks later. If the weather is dry following these applications, water the plants thoroughly. Do not get fertilizer on the leaves.
Many gardeners train their tomato plants to stakes, trellises, or cages with great success. All varieties are not equally suitable for staking and pruning.
Staking and Pruning Methods Wire cages placed over small tomato plants will hold the vines and fruit off the ground. Short cages (2 2/1 to 3 feet high) usually support themselves when the wire prongs at the bottom are pushed into the ground. Taller cages require a stake, post, or wire for support. Large (6" x 6") mesh wire permits easy harvesting. Tomato plants must be tied to supporting stakes or to a trellis because, unlike cucumber plants, they do not support themselves with tendrils. Loop ordinary soft twine, cord, or cloth loosely around the main stem and tie it tightly to the stake. Tying the stems too tightly will injure them. You may wish to prune staked or caged tomato plants to stimulate early maturity. Be sure that your variety is suitable for pruning. To prune the plant properly, remove the shoots (suckers) when they are one to two inches long. The shoots develop in the axil of each leaf (the angle between the leaf petiole and the stem above it).
Breaking off the shoots by hand is preferred to cutting them. Bend the shoots in opposite directions until they snap. Prune the plants every five to seven days. Be careful not to prune the developing flower clusters that grow from the main stem or to pinch off the growing tip (terminal) of the plant. Remember, the more severely you prune the foliage, the more you limit plant growth (including root development). Double-stem or multiple-stem pruning systems sacrifice some of the earliness and fruit size for less risk of cracking, blossom-end rot, and sunburn.
When pruning to two stems, remove all of the shoots (suckers) when they are 1 to 2 inches long, leaving only the first shoot below the first fruit cluster. This is the best shoot to develop into a second stem.
Single Stake A-Frame Wire Cage Quad Stakes Most Common in US
1-2 ft into ground tie vines as they grow
6 ft lxl" stakes 2-3 ft apart 2 ft deep in rows 3-4 ft. apart Simple to construct easy to maintain inexpensive
not wind resistant heavy pruning needed to keep plant attached to stakeA variation of single stake
2x4's for end post and top
1x2 or 2x2's elsewhere
sink end posts into ground
self supporting base 3-4 ft
vines trained 1 every 18-24" up both sides Neat
Attractive very wind resistant no pruning necessary expensiveWidely available funnel shaped wire support over plants when 6" tall
as they grow branches drape over cage keeping fruit off ground used world wide inexpensive
not wind resistant only small determinate varieties.3/4" 8 ft bamboo poles or 1x1's lashed together with twine set stakes 2 ft apart in every direction and lean togeher and lash together simple to construct large or small gardens easy to take down and reuse
relatively expensive
Harvesting Tomatoes should be firm and fully colored. They are of highest quality when they ripen on healthy vines and when daily summer temperatures average about 75 degrees F. When temperatures are high (air temperature of 90 degrees F. or more), the softening process is accelerated and color development is retarded. During hot summer weather, pick tomatoes every day or every other day. Harvest the fruit when it has a healthy pink color and ripen it further indoors (at 70 to 75 degrees F.). Harvest all green mature fruit in the fall on the day before a killing frost is expected. Wrap the tomatoes individually in paper and store at 60 to 65 degrees F. They will ripen slowly during the next several weeks. Immature green tomatoes may be harvested and used for frying or processed for relish, pickles, etc.
Storage Days to Maturity: 55-105 Harvest: Harvest fully ripened but still firm; most varieties are dark red. Picked tomatoes should be placed in shade. Light is not necessary for ripening immature tomatoes. Mature green tomatoes may be picked before the first killing frost and stored in a cool (55F), moist (90% RH) place. When desired, ripen fruits at 70F.
Approximate Yield: (per 10 feet of row) 15-45 lbs
Amount per Person: 20-25 lbs for fresh use; 25-40 lbs for canning
Storage: Green tomatoes - medium cool (50-70F), moist (90% RH) conditions; 1-3 weeks.
Ripe tomatoes - cool (40-45F), moist (90% RH) conditions; 7-10 days.Preservation: Can or freeze as sauces or in chunks (whole or quartered), peeled.
Questions & Answers What causes the lower leaves of my tomato plants to roll up? Leaf roll (curling of the leaflets) is a physiological condition that occurs most commonly when plants are trained and pruned. It does not affect fruiting or quality, and it is not a disease. Leaf roll is a common genetic tract in some varieties such as mountain delight and mountain spring.
What is a tree tomato?
The tree-like plant sold as a "tree tomato" is Cyphomandra, betacea, also called Tamarillo, a different species from garden tomatoes. it is a woody tree that grows eight feet or more in height and bears fruit after two years. The tree tomato is a tropical plant, and will not overwinter outside under Arkansas conditions.
What causes small, irregular cloudy-white spots just under the skin of my tomatoes?
The spots on green or ripe fruit are caused by the feeding of stink bugs.
What causes the flowers to drop off my tomato plants?
During unfavorable weather (night temperatures lower than 55 degrees F. or above 70 degrees F. and day temperatures above 95 degrees F. with dry, hot winds) tomatoes do not set and the flowers drop. The problem usually disappears as the weather improves.
What cause the young leaves of my plants to become pointed and irregular in shape?
I noticed the twisting of the leaves and stems after spraying the plants for the first time.
Judging from your description, it seems likely that your tomato plants have been injured by 2, 4-D or similar weed killer. Never use the same sprayer for weed control in your vegetable garden that you use in your lawn. Drift from herbicides originating one-half mile or more away can also injure your tomato plants.
When should I start my seed indoors to produce tomato transplants for my garden?
Depending upon temperature and how the plants are grown, it takes from 6 to 8 weeks to produce a healthy, 6-inch tall transplant to set out in your garden. The plants should be grown in a warm area and receive 6 to 8 hours of sunlight daily or tall, poor quality, leggy plants will
result.How do you select good transplants at nurseries or garden centers?
First, select the right variety, look for plants that appear healthy, dark green in color, and do not have any spots or holes in the leaves. The ideal tomato transplant should have five leaves and no flowers. Avoid tall, spindly plants with weak stems and leathery purple leaves.
How often should my tomatoes be fertilized?
It is necessary to fertilize the garden before planting tomatoes. Apply the fertilizer again when fruit first sets. From that point on, an additional fertilization (sidedress) every week to 10 days is recommended. Plants grown on sandy soils should be fertilized more frequently than those grown on heavy, clay soils. A general sidedress fertilizer recommendation is one to two tablespoons of a complete fertilizer scattered around the plant and worked into the soil. If using a fertilizer high in nitrogen such as ammonium nitrate, reduce the rate to one tablespoon per plant.
Should tomato plants be staked, caged or left unsupported?
Plants with foliage and fruit supported off the ground will produce more than unsupported plants. Caging has several advantages. It involves less work than staking. Once the cage is placed over the plant there is no further manipulation of the plant - no pruning or tying. The fruits are simply harvested as they ripen. In some areas, staking and pruning of the plant to a single or multiple stem results in sunburn when the developing fruit is exposed to excessive sunlight. Caged tomato vines produce more fruits of a smaller size, where staked and tied plants produce less fruits which mature earlier and are larger. Plants need to be raised off the ground to reduce disease and insect problems.
My tomato plants look great. They are dark green, vigorous and healthy. However,
flowers are not forming any fruit. What is the problem?Several conditions can cause tomatoes to not set fruit. Too much nitrogen fertilizer, nighttime temperatures over 70 degrees F., low temperatures below 50 degrees F., irregular watering, insects such as thrips or planting the wrong variety may result in poor fruit set. Any of these conditions can cause poor fruit set.
Are there really low-acid tomato varieties?
There are some varieties that are slightly less acidic than others. Some yellow-fruited types are slightly less acidic than the normal red varieties. Flavor differences which exist between varieties are not because of differences in acid content, but balances of the sugar to acid ratio. In general, cherry tomatoes are higher in both sugar and acid levels.
What does determinate mean and can you tell if a tomato is determinate by looking at
it?Determinate means the plant will stop growing and be smaller. A determinate vine is distinguished by a repeating pattern of two leaves followed by a flower or fruiting cluster. After 6 or 7 clusters the plant will stop growing. An indeterminate vine has a repeating pattern of three or four leaves, then a cluster and keeps growing.
Can I save seeds from my tomatoes from next season's plantings, and if so how?
You can save seed from tomatoes if the variety is not a hybrid. Hybrid tomatoes do not come true from seed. The plants and fruits from seeds saved from your home garden may or may not resemble the parent. However, for true breeding or open pollinated varieties, such as Ozard Pink, it is easy to save seed. To save seed from tomatoes or any other home vegetable fruit crop, leave the fruit on the plant until it is mature, pull it, squeeze juice with seed into a glass, let this ferment for several days adding water if needed. Rinse the seeds two or three times to remove debris. Seeds will settle to the bottom. After rinsing the seeds, blot them and place them on newspaper to dry. Store the seeds under cool, dry conditions.
When caging tomatoes, how large should the cage be?
The diameter of the cage should be at least 18 to 20 inches at the top. Smaller cages often restrict plant growth and reduce yields. Height of the cage will vary but generally 3 1/2 feet is sufficient for the recommended varieties. However, if vining types such as Better Boy, Cherry or Grande, are used, a cage 5 feet in height is preferred. Regardless of variety, the 3 1/2 feet tall cage is sufficient for most fall garden tomatoes.
How do you stake tomatoes?
Staking involves pruning the plant to either one or two main stalks. Tomatoes grown without support develop a bush shape. The small suckers which develop between the axil of the leaf and the stem are removed to develop a vine structure rather than a bush. A wooden stake of 1-inch diameter and 6 feet long is driven into the ground beside the plant and allows it to be loosely attached to the stake as it grows. Do not damage the root system when inserting the stake in the ground. The plant can be attached to the stake with twist-ties, soft string, strips of cloth or panty hose. The plant is sufficiently supported if it is attached to the stake at 12- to 14-inch intervals. Continued to remove suckering to prevent the plant from developing more than one or two central stems. If a double-stalk plant is desired, leave the sucker produced below the first flower cluster since it will be the most vigorous.
What causes a tomato to crack? Is there anything I can do to prevent it?
Cracking is a physiological disorder caused by soil moisture fluctuations. When the tomato reaches the mature green stage and the water supply to the plant is reduced or cut off, the tomato will begin to ripen. At this time the skin around the outer surface of the tomato becomes thicker and more rigid to protect the tomato during and after harvest. If the water supply is restored after ripening begins, the plant will resume translocation of nutrients and moisture into the fruit. This will cause the fruit to enlarge. Thus, skin splits around the fruit and results in cracking. The best control for cracking is a constant and regular water supply. Apply a layer of organic mulch to the base of the plant as this serves as a buffer and prevents soil moisture fluctuation. Water plants thoroughly every week especially when the fruits are maturing. Some varieties are resistant to cracking and we try to recommend these varieties.
What could cause the leaves of my tomatoes to turn brown along the edges?
Leaf-burn or scorch generally indicates root injury, quite often caused by heavy amounts of fertilizer applied too near the roots. This injury often results in browning and dieback of the ends and margins of the leaves.
About the time my tomatoes ripen and turn red, I lose at least half my crop to bird
damage. What can prevent this?Bird damage is common, and one control method which works quite well is to take old nylon stockings and cut them into pieces 10 to 12 inches long. Tie a knot in one end of the stocking and slip the open end over the entire cluster of tomatoes. Secure the end above the tomato cluster with a rubber band or twist-tie. Birds will not be able to peck through the nylon. Slip the stocking off the cluster and harvest the ripe fruit and replace it to protect later-ripening fruit. Also, birds damage fully mature fruit more readily than breaker fruit. Harvest in breaker stage. Other methods include using mylar tape over the plants, strips of aluminum foil, and balloons that resemble owl's eyes.
What causes the black spots on the bottom of my tomatoes?
Blossom end rot, caused by improper moisture and calcium deficiencies. Check that the soil pH is above 6.0. Maintain uniform soil moisture as the fruit nears maturity. Remove affected fruit. Use Calcium Nitrate to fertilize the plants.
What causes some of my early tomato fruit from the spring garden to be oddly shaped
and of poor quality?This condition is usually caused by low temperatures during bloom and pollination. Fruit that set when temperatures are 55 degrees F. or below often are odd-shaped and of poor quality. The blooms these tomatoes develop from often are abnormal because of temperature conditions and grow into abnormal, odd-shape fruit. Another name for this disorder is catfacing.
Should you allow tomatoes to become fully ripe and red on the vine before harvesting?
Generally, yields will be increased by harvesting the fruit at first blush of pink instead of leaving them on the plant to ripen fully. A tomato picked at first sign of color and ripened at room temperature will be just as tasty as one left to fully mature on the vine. Picking tomatoes before they turn red reduces damage from birds.
If tomatoes are picked green or before they are fully mature, how should they be
handled to insure proper ripening and full flavor?Never refrigerate tomatoes when picked immature. Place them in a single layer at room temperature and allowed them to develop full color. When they are full ripe, place them in the refrigerator where they will store for several weeks. Those handled in this manner will be of high quality and full flavor.
What is a husk tomato?
Husk tomato is Physallis, also called Ground Cherry. It is grown the same way as regular tomatoes and produces a fruit the size of a cherry tomato. The fruits are produced inside a paper-like husk which, when ripe, turns brown and the fruit drops from the plant. If left in the husk, the fruit will keep for several weeks. Like tomatoes, they are sensitive to cold weather and should be set out from plants after all danger of frost in the spring. Space the plants 1 1/2 feet apart in rows at least 3 feet apart. The ripened small fruit can be used in pies, jams or may be dried in sugar and used like raisins.
I have the best tomato crop I have ever had, but the large tomatoes are falling off the
vines. Even the ones that stay on the vine are jarred off easily. What is the problem?Cool fall temperatures cause the abscission zone, the area where the tomato is attached to the plant, to weaken and the heavy fruit subsequently falls. Gather fallen tomatoes as soon as possible, wipe them clean and store them in a warm place to ripen.
I have large translucent areas on my tomato fruit. What's going on?
This is an environmental problem. The translucent area is caused by sun scald. Heat from direct intense sunlight destroys the color pigments of the tomato. This damage does not make the tomato inedible, but it is unsightly.
Can I propagate tomatoes for the fall garden from existing vines?
If necessary, use suckers or layering (cover with soil until roots appear) of existing vine. Do this several weeks before the determined recommended transplanting date for fall tomatoes, and use early tomato varieties. This is not a generally recommended practice. This practice does not work well with indeterminate varieties.
How do you tell when a green tomato harvested early to prevent freeze damage will
ever turn red and ripen?This can simply be done with a sharp kitchen knife. Harvest a tomato typical of the majority of green tomatoes on your plants. Look at size but pay particular attention to fruit color. Slice through the center of the tomato. Closely examine the seed within the fruit. If the seeds are covered with a clear gell which cause them to move away from the knife, then that fruit will eventually turn red and ripen. If the seeds are cut by the knife then those fruit will never properly ripen. Compare the color and size of the tested fruit when harvesting tomatoes on your plants. Most similar fruit will eventually ripen and turn red.
The foliage on my tomatoes is infected by irregularly shaped spots which cause it to
turn yellow and drop off. This occur in all seasons and is on the top as well as the bottom leaves.Several types of leaf spots will attack tomatoes. Septoria leaf spot is seen quite often and can be controlled with a fungicide spray program. Begin the spray program early in the life of the plant.
The leaves on my tomato plants are distorted. Why?
This is caused tobacco mosaic virus. If the virus is severe, remove the plants to prevent spread to other plants. Working around the infected plants can spread the virus to nearby healthy plants. Many viruses are insect transmitted, so carry out a good insect control program on tomatoes. Cucumber mosaic virus causes symptoms similar to 2-4-D injury.
My tomato plants are stunted and have a pale yellow foliage. The root system has
knots or swellings on the roots.These are root knot nematodes. Some varieties such as Celebrity and Better Boy resist this problem. It is best to use only nematode resistant varieties. Nematode resistance is indicated by the letter N after the name. Example: Celebrity VFN.
My tomatoes were healthy during the spring and early summer, yet after a recent
rain, they wilted and died very rapidly. I found a white fungal growth at the base of the
plant.This is southern blight. It is a soilborne fungus that lives on organic material in the soil. Deep burial of undecomposed organic material in the soil will reduce this problem. Control foliage diseases of tomato plants because the fallen leaves around the base of the plant will feed the fungus, and it will build up this area and cause damage later. Crop rotation will also reduce the incidence of southern blight.
My tomato plants wilted rapidly. When I cut the stem open, I found a brown ring
around the inside.This is Fusarium wilt caused by a soilborne fungus that attacks tomatoes and other crops. It is controlled only through the use of resistant varieties. Most commercial tomato varieties are resistant. Before you plant a variety, make sure it is resistant to Fusarium wilt. This resistance is denoted by the letter F after the name. Example: Celebrity VFN.
What do the letters "VFN" associated with particular tomato varieties indicate?
VFN indicates the tomato variety is resistant to three types of diseases: Verticilum wilt, Fusarium wilt and nematodes. Many of the new hybrid varieties are VFN types.
The lower foliage on my tomatoes is beginning to turn yellow and drop. The leaves
have circular, dark brown to black spots.This is Alternaria leaf spot or early blight, a common problem on tomatoes and causes defoliation, usually during periods of high rainfall. Plant tomatoes on a raised bed to improve water drainage and spaced them enough so air can move and dry the foliage and prevent diseases. Follow a spray program using a fungicide beginning when the fruit is set and continuing at 1 week intervals during the growing season until harvest.
My tomato fruits have small yellow specks on the surface. When the fruit are peeled,
those yellow specks form a tough spot that must be cut off before eating the tomatoes.
What's wrong?The yellow speckling is caused by sucking insects such as stinkbugs or leaf-footed bugs. Early control of sucking insects that feed on the fruit is helpful in alleviating the problem.
We planted tomatoes in our small garden. They are loaded and are the best tomatoes
we have ever had; however, there are some small holes near the stem end of the
tomato. When we cut the tomato open, there is a small worm inside. What is it and
what can we do?Your fruits have been invaded by the tomato pinworm. They usually do not damage all fruit and can be controlled only by a preventive insecticide spray every 7 to 10 days. When the damage is evident, it is too late to do anything about it.
What causes my tomato leaves to turn yellowish and fall off?
Many conditions may cause these symptoms including spider mites, diseases and nutrient deficiencies. Examine the underside of the leaves for small red to greenish mites. If mites are found, treat with two to three applications of an insecticides at 5-day intervals.
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